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A new basement section recently doubled the size of this terrific modern European wine-bar-cum-bistro just off Trafalgar Square. Ed Wilson's food is francophilic and accessible: gorgeous bone marrow with mushroom duxelle and truffle oil on sourdough toast; chicken roasted with 40 cloves of garlic; duck breast and beetroot salad with hazelnuts. It's invariably stunning-looking food, and though the flavours occasionally don't deliver, it's easy to have a good meal without feeling ripped off. Plonk plays a predictably major role, particularly lived-in, biodynamic stuff; there are more than 200 bins and plenty by the glass and carafe. The lunch deal is a main course and a decent swill of vino for just a tenner, and shouldn't be missed.