Category Archives: Critics’ Reviews Round-Up
Weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 08/11
Welcome to this week’s round-up Matthew Norman is at the ‘High Tory temple’ of Wilton’s, newly repainted in ‘autumnal pastels’. Smoked salmon at 28 quid was ‘superb’, dover soles were accurately cooked and venison, grouse etc were lovely. This ‘bring-the-mortgage-deeds’ … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 01/11
Welcome to this week’s round-up The review of the week is Jay Rayner’s, visiting the York & Albany, Angela Hartnett’s hotel-cum-deli north of Regent’s Park. Pumpkin tortelli with sage leaves and beurre noisette was ‘spot on’, osso bucco with polenta was … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 25/10
Welcome to the weekly round-up Zoe Williams visits the revamped, post-fire Red Fort: ‘a bit like going back in time … in a nice way’. Lamb kebab was ‘exquisite’, a seafood stew was hot, ‘the chilli assertively the point of … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 18/10
Lizzie Mabbott returns to The Sportsman at Seasalter, a place I’ve been meaning to visit for far too long. The tasting menu has barely changed in a year, which Lizzie doesn’t mind: ‘if it aint broke then I suppose, why … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring, 11/10
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews Giles Coren visits the Street Kitchen, Jun Tanaka’s van “serving good hot food in boxes”. Hot smoked salmon with beetroot and horseradish was the best thing he had, “full of … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring, 04/10
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews Fay Maschler visits Eight Over Eight, newly reopened after a fire all but destroyed it last year. The place was ‘crammed’. Black pepper ribs were ‘tepid and flaccid’ but king … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 27/09
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring The Fish Shed, observes John Lanchester, is ‘a shed where they cook fish’. The haddock was ‘as good as it gets … the flesh moist and dense’. Chips … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 20/09
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring ‘Cavernously vast’, ‘bizarre’ and ‘tasteless’ are Marina O’Loughlin‘s verdicts on Shaka Zulu. The dishes were ‘bland and underwhelming’: peri-peri prawns tasted of ‘nothing’, kudu fillet had ‘no flavour … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 13/09
Welcome to the weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring John Walsh finds Polpetto ‘an exercise in carefully-wrought grottiness’ full of ‘glamorous media types’. But ‘timings are brutal’. Pickled sardines with onions and pine nuts was ‘fine’ … Continue reading