Category Archives: Critics’ Reviews Round-Up
Weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 07/02
Welcome to the weekly roundup Fay Maschler: ‘Whimsical names, a detailed bibliography and unexpected combinations distinguish the experience at Dinner but also to some extent skew it.’ She’s right to point out that ‘Rice & Flesh’ is just saffron risotto, … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly roundup ‘Everything about Roux at the Landau is carefully considered,’ says Fay Maschler. Carrot and mushroom terrine was ‘permeated with sharp/sweet almost Moroccan flavours’ and wild sea bass wasn’t as good as she’d hoped it would … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly roundup The new Marylebone branch of Vinoteca is ‘nicer than Brawn’ according to Marina O’Loughlin. ‘Everything we eat in this unfussy [room] is excellent’: steamed clams in tarragon broth, smoked haddock with cream and colcannon, duck … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly roundup Albert’s Table is a ‘solid, sturdy restaurant knocking out solid, sturdy dishes’, says Jay Rayner. ‘In the main it is French bistro food’: crab tart; endive, blue cheese and chive salad; braised venison hotpot with … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of the national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 03/01
A happy new year to you. Reviews slowed to a trickle over Christmas, so some of these are from a wee while back. A ‘less-than-whelming meal’ for Jay Rayner at The Swan at Southrop. They’d run out of the baked … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 13/12
AA Gill is at The Savoy River Room: newly decorated, the hotel is a ‘horror movie’. The menu is ‘bland and expensively undemanding’. Crab cakes were ‘gannet pucks’ and black leg chicken was ‘about as unappealing and uncosy as you … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly roundup David Sexton is at the Savoy Grill. Omelette Arnold Bennett (invented there) was ‘delicious but overwhelming as a starter’, while braised hare was ‘accomplished, fussy’. This is ‘just another catering operation from the Ramsay empire, … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 29/11
Zoe Williams is at Les Deux Salons: never let it be said that the London critics have a mob mentality. ‘Some (though not all) of the dishes are so good, in such a French way it’s almost impossible to believe … Continue reading