Author Archives: OliverThring

Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 14/02

February 14, 2011 OliverThring Leave a comment

Welcome to the weekly roundup Brawn is still pulling in the critics: this time it’s Charles Campion. ‘The food is hearty and full-flavoured’, ‘the Mongetes is wonderful’ and ‘the black pudding and oxtail Parmentier vies for the crown in the … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 07/02

February 7, 2011 OliverThring 1 Comment

Welcome to the weekly roundup Fay Maschler: ‘Whimsical names, a detailed bibliography and unexpected combinations distinguish the experience at Dinner but also to some extent skew it.’ She’s right to point out that ‘Rice & Flesh’ is just saffron risotto, … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @oliverthring, 31/01

January 31, 2011 OliverThring 2 Comments

W​elcome to the weekly roundup ​‘Smart but not overly formal’ says Tracey MacLeod of Van Zeller in Harrogate. Ham hock terrine was ‘more labour intensive than you’d expect at this price point’ and queen scallops were ‘excellent’. ‘Puddings confirmed van Zeller’s … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring

January 24, 2011 OliverThring 3 Comments

Welcome to the weekly roundup ‘Everything about Roux at the Landau is carefully considered,’ says Fay Maschler. Carrot and mushroom terrine was ‘permeated with sharp/sweet almost Moroccan flavours’ and wild sea bass wasn’t as good as she’d hoped it would … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring

January 17, 2011 OliverThring 1 Comment

Welcome to the weekly roundup The new Marylebone branch of Vinoteca is ‘nicer than Brawn’ according to Marina O’Loughlin. ‘Everything we eat in this unfussy [room] is excellent’: steamed clams in tarragon broth, smoked haddock with cream and colcannon, duck … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring

January 11, 2011 OliverThring 2 Comments

Welcome to the weekly roundup Albert’s Table is a ‘solid, sturdy restaurant knocking out solid, sturdy dishes’, says Jay Rayner. ‘In the main it is French bistro food’: crab tart; endive, blue cheese and chive salad; braised venison hotpot with … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of the national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 03/01

January 3, 2011 OliverThring 1 Comment

A happy new year to you. Reviews slowed to a trickle over Christmas, so some of these are from a wee while back. A ‘less-than-whelming meal’ for Jay Rayner at The Swan at Southrop. They’d run out of the baked … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 13/12

December 13, 2010 OliverThring Leave a comment

AA Gill is at The Savoy River Room: newly decorated, the hotel is a ‘horror movie’. The menu is ‘bland and expensively undemanding’. Crab cakes were ‘gannet pucks’ and black leg chicken was ‘about as unappealing and uncosy as you … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 29/11

November 29, 2010 OliverThring 1 Comment

Zoe Williams is at Les Deux Salons: never let it be said that the London critics have a mob mentality. ‘Some (though not all) of the dishes are so good, in such a French way it’s almost impossible to believe … Continue reading →

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Weekly roundup of the national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring, 22/11

November 22, 2010 OliverThring 3 Comments

Marina O’Loughlin is ‘comprehensively ignored’ at Cafe Luc, where the food is ‘tiresome and heavy’. Shrimp croquettes are ‘grim’, partridge ‘overcooked into impenetrable greyness’ and apple crumble ‘bland’. ‘This is little better than Café Rouge food but at River Café … Continue reading →

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