Author Archives: iStarvin
Restaurant review by @OliverThring: Gauthier Soho
Gauthier Soho: ★★★★☆ When Gauthier Soho opened in the early summer, several reviewers mentioned a reek of fat and fish lingering in the downstairs dining room. It’s still there, I’m afraid: the unmistakeable fug of Greenock chip shop. Like any … Continue reading
Weekly roundup of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly roundup David Sexton is at the Savoy Grill. Omelette Arnold Bennett (invented there) was ‘delicious but overwhelming as a starter’, while braised hare was ‘accomplished, fussy’. This is ‘just another catering operation from the Ramsay empire, … Continue reading
Restaurant review: Les Deux Salons – by @OliverThring
Les Deux Salons: ★★★★☆ Les Deux Salons is ostensibly modelled on the grand old Parisian brasseries. I say ostensibly. There’s red leather, globular lights, thick linen, hypnotic tiling, a big brass bar and waiters in black and white. And there … Continue reading
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 06/09
Andrew Pettie is at the stalwart Madhu’s (formerly The Brilliant) in Southall. ‘The prices are still startlingly cheap’. Masala tilapia was ‘delicate and refreshing’, black dhal was ‘tasty and spicy’ and lamb chops in onion and tomato sauce ‘standout’. ‘The … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of the National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring. ‘This is the most disconcertingly odd restaurant you may ever visit,’ says Matthew Norman at The Evesham Hotel in Worcestershire. The ‘Basil Fawlty’-esque owner was ‘wearing a … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of the National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring. Boyd’s Brasserie feels like ‘an enormous square womb’ to Marina O’Loughlin. The menu ranges from ‘excellent’ to ‘frankly duff’: it may serve a ‘killer’ burger and … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring. ‘The dishes never quite came together’ for Tracey Macleod at Edinburgh’s annoyingly-named 21212. Paul Kitching’s food is ‘stimulating and frustrating in equal measure’: a dish of … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics’ restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring. Fay Maschler is at Wallace & Co., the new Putney venture from veg tycoon and Masterchef judge, Gregg Wallace. It’s a ‘gastronomically ambitious’ but ‘homespun’ operation: … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics’ restaurant reviews by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring. ‘Frisson and frolics are not easily imposed’ on customers, says Fay Maschler at Circus, where dinner and burlesque entwine in a tacky … Continue reading
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics’ Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics’ restaurant reviews by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring. AA Gill is on familiar West London turf at Kitchen W8, Phil Howard and Rebecca Mascarenhas’s posh-neighbourhood joint which opened last October. … Continue reading