Archive for July, 2010
Jul
Weekly round-up of national critics’ restaurant reviews by @OliverThring, 26/07
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring
Marina O'Loughlin samples some London sandwich bars, including Mooli's ('where I’d happily grab lunch for the rest of my days'), the 'disappointing' Banh Mi Bay and the Bountiful Cow in Holborn, which sells 'arguably the biggest burger in town'.
Giles Coren is at Field and Fork in Chichester, whose 'food was very good'. Ceviche of trout and scallop was also 'very good', and though rabbit tagine was 'a little wan', raspberry and chocolate soufflé was 'the most exciting thing I've had in years'. 'This is lovely, folksy-cum-hoity-toity cooking'.
Jul
Weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 19/07
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national critics' restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring
Abu Zaad is a 'beauty', says Matthew Norman, 'one of Britain's tiny handful of Syrian restaurants'. 'The food is immaculately fresh': fatoush was 'superb' and minced lamb with aubergine and yoghurt 'delicious and aesthetically pleasing'. This is a 'truly great neighbourhood restaurant'.
AA Gill 'ate almost everything' at Gauthier Soho, but the food was 'very neat and polite, and exceedingly bland'. Broad beans 'tasted of soap' and a tiny bit of john dory was 'like a mermaid's lip'. 'It all seemed exhausted, small, timid and neat, without being attractive, like eating sighs and sniffles.'
Jul
Weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 12/07
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring.
After several weeks' absence, AA Gill reviews the Mount Street Deli in Mayfair. A beef sandwich was 'a miserable little pile that you might find on an Intercity trolley'. A lobster wasn't fresh and a lemon meringue was like 'an egg poached in Jif'. 'This place has been designed ... by someone who has never, ever been to another sandwich bar or cafe in the world'.
Giles Coren is at the Daylesford Organic Farmshop Café in Gloucestershire, 'the countryside for Londoners'. A plate of salads was 'in the rudest of health' and a ploughman's was 'grade A'. 'It's all a teeny bit wanky' but Coren 'won't hear a word said against it'.
Jul
Weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 04/07
Welcome to the weekly round-up of national restaurant critics by Oliver Thring
Marina O'Loughlin: Roux at Parliament Square is 'about as much fun as a day spent transcribing John Redwood interviews'. '[Daniel] Cox is an assured cook': sea trout was 'flawlessly cooked' but a serving of pork belly was 'parsimonious'. 'The whole thing simply makes me want to have a bit of a snooze.'
John Walsh rather enjoys the Pallant House Gallery in Chichester. 'The decor is a neutral cream-grey'. Smoked eel with carrot and sesame was 'tender, moist and yummy' and slow-roast pork belly (the innovation!) was 'dark, intense, mysterious and delicious'. It's 'superior, perfectly judged, confidently flavoured cooking'.