iStarvin Blog
Weekly round-up of the national critics' restaurant reviews by @OliverThring
15th February, 2010 - by Oliver Thring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics' restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring.
Boyd's Brasserie feels like 'an enormous square womb' to Marina O'Loughlin. The menu ranges from 'excellent' to 'frankly duff': it may serve a 'killer' burger and a 'perfectly judged' foie gras parfait, but a green, herby risotto is 'soggy and porridgy'. Overrall, though the restaurant is 'a curio, maybe, but not a folly'.
Weekly round-up of the national critics' restaurant reviews by @OliverThring
8th February, 2010 - by Oliver Thring
Welcome to the weekly round-up of the national critics' restaurant reviews by Oliver Thring.
'The dishes never quite came together' for Tracey Macleod at Edinburgh's annoyingly-named 21212. Paul Kitching's food is 'stimulating and frustrating in equal measure': a dish of sea bass arrived cluttered with sweet potato, chorizo, hazelnuts, dried basil and several more unidentified ingredients. Though there are occasional 'hits of flavour', the chef's 'eccentricities' are 'challenging'.
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics' Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
1st February, 2010 - by Oliver Thring 1 commentWelcome to the weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics' Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
25th January, 2010 - by Oliver ThringWelcome to the weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
Weekly Round-Up of National Critics' Restaurant Reviews by @OliverThring
19th January, 2010 - by Oliver Thring 1 commentWelcome to the weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
Restaurant Critic Round-up by @OliverThring
20th December, 2009 - by Oliver ThringWelcome to the seventh weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
What is it about French waiters? by @OliverThring
18th December, 2009 - by Oliver Thring 1 commentParis yesterday, cold and bright. Cream stone, pursed mouths, a brown ribbon of river. I've been here every year since my late teens, I grew up in a Swiss village a mile from the border, my dad still lives in France – but I've only recently begun to realise something about the locals. You know what a Frenchman thinks of you not by his acts or words but by the look he gives you. And I like that: the clean, steady vivisection of personality.
@OliverThring: "Sharing" plates: the grim trend of 2009
16th December, 2009 - by Oliver Thring 4 commentsSo 2009 wheezes out the decade. As I write this, snow is falling outside, unsettlingly. This is a fearful time for restaurants: they're hyping their Christmas menus with all the urgent gloom of a closing down sale. Those glorious, spending tables will stand desolate in January, the glasses unfilled, the rooms idle and voiceless.
@OliverThring's Weekly Round-Up of National Critics' Restaurant Reviews
14th December, 2009 - by Oliver Thring 1 commentWelcome to the sixth weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
@OliverThring's weekly round-up of national critics' restaurant reviews
7th December, 2009 - by Oliver ThringWelcome to the fifth weekly round-up of reviews from the national restaurant critics by food writer and blogger Oliver Thring.
This week:
